Phnom Penh Restaurant Reviews: Sher e Punjab
The decor of the Shere-Punjabi Indian Restaurant is calm and classy. Off-white walls dressed with traditional earth-toned tapestries create a conservative North Indian feel. This contrasts dramatically with my buddy’s fire engine red pinstriped Abercrombie & Finch polo shirt which he has scored at a bargain basement price from a local sweatshop this afternoon. He explains to me that the trick to attaining such treasures lies in finding out which high-end international clothing companies outsource their manufacturing work to Cambodia and then seeking out those brands in the markets. He assures me that one can easily save 75% off the Western the retail price of such goodies. I agree that the prices for these garments in the developed countries are highly inflated – if not downright extortionate.
We settle into the menu as the waiter brings a warm-up plate of Papadoms and one of deep fried noodles. The Papadoms are common in Indian restaurants in Phnom Penh (and elsewhere), but this is the first time I have seen the noodles. It is actually the first time I have seen this kind of noodles since I lived in the United States. They are mainly served as an appetizer in Chinese restaurants there. They are crisp yet soft, and have a slightly creamy texture which is enhanced by the oil. I tear into them voraciously, knowing full well that they will quickly diminish my appetite – but unable to control myself. I order a second (free) plate within minutes.
The menu at this place is comprehensive. Out of the fourteen pages, there is a whole one dedicated to soups. There is also a hybrid Chinese/Indian section. We choose to stick with the traditional Indian dishes.
My buddy has raved that this is the best Indian place in town because they have an authentic Tandoori oven with which to produce the finest breads and grilled meats. So, we start with an order of Chicken Tikka (Skewered boneless chicken marinated in yogurt, ginger, garlic and spices cooked in the Tandor – $5.00) and a two side orders of plain Naan bread ($1.25/each). As one of my favorite Indian ingredients is Palaak (spinach), and since we have already ordered a chicken dish, in addition to the fact that I love goat meat I suggest the Mutton Palaak (Boneless pieces of Mutton cooked in spinach sauce – $5.50). Trying this dish again here will also allow for a good comparison to the same dish at other Indian restaurants we have reviewed. In an effort to balance the meat with some vegetable we decide on Chana Masala (Steamed chick peas seasoned with a mix of mango powder and cumin seeds with a touch of coriander – $3.50). We also include an order of Daal Balti (Mild yellow lentil curry – $3.00). We throw in an order or Chappati ($0.75) and Tandor Roti ($0.90) breads to accompany the vegetable dishes, as well as Basmati rice ($1.00), just in case.
As we wait for the food we begin chatting about Indian people and their place in the world. My buddy raves about the Indian restaurants in London and claims that the Indians are some of the most extensively traveled of all the races of people. I let a little air out of his sails by reminding him that this distorted perspective is likely the outcome of the fact that Indians are highly represented in England primarily due to the colonial history. I assure him that the Chinese are by far more well-represented the world over. After all, compare the number of “Chinatowns” to those of “Indiatowns” in the world’s major cities. I think this provides a more realistic assessment of the situation.
Just as we are escalating into a battle over which empire (English or American) has laid claim to the best cuisines, the electricity goes out. “Oh, great! Now you know they don’t have a generator!” exclaims my pompous post-colonial master dining mate. But to our surprise the waiters immediately begin to roll one out and things are back in operation within minutes. This is just another example of the impeccable service we received throughout the meal.
The feast arrives on a giant tray of Indian-style bowls and pots. The reddened Chicken Tikka chunks sizzle over a bed of slaw-like vegetables. The spicy aroma draws us in. We tuck a chicken piece into fluffy pieces of naan and stuff shredded vegetables into our Indian sandwiches. The chicken is moist and juicy and the naan bread full and tender. Each bite is delicious.
As I savor a mouthfull of Tikka I take in the dark green Palaak covered with drippings of yogurt. The hue of the spinach is much deeper than Palaak dishes I have had in other restaurants. I scoop some basmati rice into my plate and spoon a large piece of spinach soaked mutton out of the bowl which resembles a claypot. The spinach is finely ground and authentically bitter. Indian chefs tend to downplay the natural spinach taste in this dish. But this one has allowed the spinach a nice presence. The tender dark mutton meat is tender and blends perfectly with the strong palaak sauce.
The portion size of Channa Masala is generous. The steamed chick peas are soft and pastelike. The sauce is significantly creamy and heavy with a unique sweetness. I have had this dish many times in the past and the sauce is usually more tangy with less tender chick peas which creates a nice distinction between the starchy vegetable and the accompanying sauce. At this place the two are too well integrated, and the flavour of the sauce is less natural. I say this especially since the accompanying Daal dish also has a similar general flavour to the Channa. When two distinct dishes have a similar taste it usually means that the chef lacks what I like to call “spice range”. The best Indian restaurants will make every dish taste unique.
While I was not very impressed by the Channa and Daal dishes, my buddy was satisfied with both. My opinion may also have been affected by the fact that I had loaded up on fried dry noodles at the beginning of the meal and was thus too full for comfort. This tends to happen to me often at Indian restaurants as the food is generally heavy and it is easy to over order. The good thing is that they are happy to wrap up the leftovers for us.
As we sit digesting our feast the waiter brings an attractive wooden tray of toothpicks and special Indian digestive cleansing spices. My buddy is reminded of the same ritual he has experienced in Indian restaurants in London. I personally have never had the pleasure of being served these at any Indian restaurant before. We picked through the different individual spices to isolate the tastes. The little red beans give a quick kick of freshness similar to that of a light but pungent liquorices.
The meal ends with a fine little treat of deep fried honey balls. I love it when Indian restaurants serve these. They are as addictive as chocolate truffles (in my opinion). We pop them down and savor the taste which lingers for a minute.
All in all it was a nice dining experience. The waitstaff was competent and accomodating. The decor and atmosphere (with the exception of the television) were inviting. The Chicken Tikka, breads and Mutton Palaak were first-rate. In my opinion, the other two dishes could use some work, although my standards may be excessively high because I have eaten these dishes so many times in many different restaurants. For the average diner they may be considered fine.
The price of the meal came to roughly $25 for two people. This also included a couple of Laos Beers for my buddy.
As he ultimately convinced me to try this place based on its authentic Tandoori oven I would be in agreement with him that this is the best Indian restaurant that I have experienced so far in Cambodia with this feature. However, I believe that the non-Tandoori dishes can be had better elsewhere, and at a generally lower price as well.
Frank Lancieri
