Any other ex-expat kids around?
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Any other ex-expat kids around?
It's no secret that I spent part of my teenage years in PP, and that I went to high-school here (LFRD). I'm wondering if there are others with a similar story on this forum? Perhaps some ex-ISSP, NISC, or other international schools? Not many barangs come back after graduation, but those who do quickly notice that there are radical lifestyle difference between living here a student / living here as a young professional.
Last edited by Khmerized on Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Offline, I meet a lot of them at The Terrace on St. 95 and Show Box on St. 330.
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Khmerized, this is pretty cool. What country are you from and what did your parents do that allowed you to grow up in PP? How was it going to school and growing up in PP? I don't want to ask you to give away your age if you do not want to but, what year(s) did you grow up in PP? How was it different, even if not to long ago?
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I wasn't a teenager here but I was in Hanoi. Lived there for 4 years and went to the French lycee for my final highschool years. I did my Bac in Bangkok, as I'm guessing you did too Khmerized. I then had a similar experience to you as I went back after a stint in Europe studying and noticed the massive changes to the country and the change in lifestyle you speak of (no more school or parents, "real life"). Also found it very difficult to adjust back to living in Europe, hence why I'm still in SE Asia.
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No worries, I'm 23, easy enough to find out on the interwebz, along with a bunch of other info. I'm out of here in a few months, so anonymity isn't important to me.DetroitMuscle wrote:Khmerized, this is pretty cool. What country are you from and what did your parents do that allowed you to grow up in PP? How was it going to school and growing up in PP? I don't want to ask you to give away your age if you do not want to but, what year(s) did you grow up in PP? How was it different, even if not to long ago?
Well, I'm stoned out of my mind right now but I'm feeling creative and I've got nothing else to do, so here is a brief insight on my life and of my few years as a troubled teenager in Cambodia, for whoever might give a damn and be patient enough to read the cluttered product of a foggy mind. Yes, I think you're getting more than you bargained for, and I'd surprised if anyone actually read everything, but what the heck.
I'm more or less French (by passport, education, culture, cheese-appreciation and mother-tongue, but my family is very pan-European, mostly British / Croatian / Austrian and whatnot) and my mom is a photographer, which was a great thing because she always took me along on her trips throughout the world, mainly Asia.
I was fortunate enough to skip a whole school year when I was 12-13 and traveled from Paris to Saigon over-land via Russia, Mongolia, China, and then back via Cambodia / Thailand / Myanmar / India / Nepal / Tibet / Pakistan and other *stan countries. It's during that trip that I visited Cambodia for the first time, and to be honest, I wasn't particularly fond. After 4 months on the road in China, Vietnam seemed like a haven of civilization (they had cheese! and baguette! and beautiful architecture! and strange, white, aerial creatures on bicycles, who troubled me for reasons that I was just starting to grasp) and I was not in favor of leaving it to go to dusty, noisy, and objectively ugly Phnom Penh. Phnom Penh's charm has to be learned, it's invisible at first. My first night in Cambodia was quite memorable, but that's perhaps a story for another post.
In 2002, Angkor wasn't flooded with bloody tourists yet, and being able to witness a sunrise, in complete solitude, at Preah Kahn and other temples, was a magical experience. I remember something about my mom forbidding me to pee on the side of road because of landmines. And "Red people" who killed a large part of the population for reasons that completely escaped me. But indeed, I immediately noticed that elderly people were rare, and that this country was young, in an eerie way. I also have memories of dusty red roads and hypnotizing prostitutes on the riverside. Ha.
Anyway, after a year of complete freedom in Asia, it was hard to re-adapt to Paris and its grey, stressed-out and sterile lifestyle (or so I saw it at the time) and my mom and I were longing to go back to where we felt we belonged. On the road, or at least not too far from it. Even though I was barely old enough to take simple, everyday life-related decisions , my mom really left the decision of moving back to Asia up to me, which retrospectively seems completely insane. But after a short year of gloom and awkwardness in Venice, we picked Cambodia for Visa-related reasons, and because the French School is decent, life is cheap, etc...; packed our lives into 20KG suitcases, booked a month at the Billabong Hotel to give us time to find a flat, and off we went.
I was almost 15 when I moved to Cambodia, and even though we originally planned on staying just a year, I didn't leave until I was 18, after obtaining my French Baccalaureate (our version of the IB/A-levels or whatever). My mom stayed three more years, using Phnom Penh as a hub to travel back and forth between S.E. Asia, Pakistan, and Europe.
Compared to Parisian schools, LFRD (Lycée Français Renée Descartes) is (or was) very small, and the atmosphere was very easy-going. Quite a change from the hyper-competitive factory-schools I was used to. Everything seemed incredibly easy and simple. Wake up, have breakfast on the riverside, ride to school on a tiny Honda Wave, attend classes with surprisingly decent teachers, flirt with girls, flirt a little more, eat a ridiculously cheap lok lak for lunch, attend more classes and spend the rest of the evening at Howie's, flirtin' on through the night and practicing my English, a language that I knew few rudiments of, but that I was very eager to practice.
I think LFRD would not have been the same without its share of emancipated, westernized and, I must say, lethal Khmer hotties. Let's cut to the chase, girls were obviously the most interesting thing about being a a fair-skinned teenage god in Cambodia. I was lucky enough (or not) to date the grand-daughter of an infamous Minster (who shall remain nameless, and no, it's not him, duh) resulting in a relationship that suddenly propelled me into a world of bodyguards, villas that impressed more with their phenomenal lack of taste than their attempts at grandeur, and overnight trips to Bangkok just to buy the newest LV bag, a sort of parallel universe, completely separate from the real Cambodia that I was learning to know and love. The girl in question became a tad too eager to embrace French culture for her parent's comfort levels, i.e. freethinking and feminist, so they decided to send her abroad to study away from all those French perverts and crazy teachers who actually expect Khmer students to learn about French (de)colonization of Indochina, the Vietnam war, and uh.. the Khmer Rouge (she was bound to ask "grandpa, is that you on that picture?" if she ever reached page 87 of our History book).
So yes, being 16, having your mom be away most of the time, and therefore being completely free, lost and careless in the giant social maze that is Phnom Penh was quite awesome. I became very fond of rock'n'roll and was part of a band that would regularly play at Sharky's, and boy did we make fools of ourselves, just tragic. Perhaps there are a few polite souls still lingering around this forum who might remember us, the band that sucked, the frogs who tried to sing in English, and failed at it just enough to entertain a couple of freelancers, so it's wasn't all for nothing. Drugs were so cheap and so easy to obtain that they (almost) weren't fun nor exciting, but add your crazy-nouveau-riche-khmer-kids friends to the mix and events take strange, exciting, and sometimes slightly insane turns. I have vague memories of being completely hammered in the back of a ginormous SUV, being chased down by another ginormous SUV on southern Monivong and onto the other side of the Vietnamese bridge and wondering if I'd be ever able to hear anything again after the two shots that were fired, inside the car, for some reason that I still prefer not to know about.
I must say going to school here was quite interesting, in retrospect, for the simple reason that there were absolutely no boundaries between barangs like I, and our Khmer counterparts who also attended the school. Be it in love or in friendship, I think we were completely free of any social, cultural, or financial differences that might have separated us outside the school. Of course we tried to emulate social classes and political parties that were present outside the school's walls, but in the end we were just kids who didn't really give a fuck about anything besides sex, drugs and rock'n'roll (if you had good taste, otherwise it was bloody hip-hop) even though we were VERY different from each other. A true pot-pourri of globalized teenage hormones.
You might be curious to know what kind of students you'd find at an international school in Phnom Penh. The following are a few categories you could use to classify them, and all the anecdotes mentioned here are true, with perhaps some small details changed - caricature or not, judge for yourself. Just remember, there are exceptions to every rule, by no means do I say these profiles to be universal, nor are they very serious.
WARNING: Any resemblance to yourself, your women and daughters or your bar-buddies is probably NOT coincidental.
- - The Expatriate Kids:
Their goal is to make their lives as similar as possible to the ones they lived in the west, with the added perks of good weather and obscenely cheap staff. Stay-at-home moms will kill time by organizing cooking clubs, charities, and breastfeeding gatherings. Finding a nice piece of fabric at the Russian Market will be the highlight of their week, their pinnacle of excitement. They read Cambodge Soir and L'Echo, and watch TV5 Monde religiously every evening, mostly for "Questions Pour Un Champion".
- - The Military Kids:
By the way, they're excellent rugby players and won the Cambodian championship 5 years in a row, if I remember well. This group probably matches the caricatural ideas that many Americans have of the French, but they do remind me of the rednecks and teabaggers back in America, who happen to be the most vocal French haters I know of, quite ironically. Anyway, for some reason, girls absolutely love those guys, which might have something to do with the fact that constantly running around one's neighborhood, shooting at rats with BB-guns in +30º temperatures does help maintain a pretty nice body.
- - The Rich Khmer Kids:
Interestingly enough, during my time, the RKK were divided into two sub-groups; the royalists and the nationalists. Royalists were usually from the families that fled, nationalists were from families whose history they "just don't know anything about" between '75 and '79. Apparently belonging to one group or another is a big deal, and there are serious tensions. Just imagine a bunch of ignorant kids playing grown-up politics in the schoolyard with all the seriousness and bitterness that they are capable of, learning the ropes directly from their experienced parents.
Whether royalists or nationalists, they often have bodyguards who wait in SUVs parked outside the school. Blame those guys for creating jams around the international schools, they just won't move. The RKK typically take notes with Mont Blanc pens on Hermes planners, because they'll learn better that way, obviously. They are also gun-nuts. My girlfriend's 12-year old brother would carry a 9 millimeter in his bag to school and brag about it on FB by taking pictures of 100$ stashes, car keys to an expensive SUV and a couple of hand-grenades. Female RKKs get their hair done at London Salon on Monivong and get lunch from Fresco (which was the first place of its kind to open in PP, as far as I remember). Most of them travel first-class to France during the summer holidays and frequent 5-star hotels, but are completely happy with tiled-walls, neon-lights and the widespread tastelessness of their surroundings when they're back home, in their 15-bedroom mansion. They think that the Barang kids at school are fucking ridiculous with their cheap bags and non-diamond-encrusted, non-Vertu, sub-$1000 phones. Fucking hippies.
The RKK don't know who Hitler, Mao Tze Tung, Stalin, Mozart, Einstein, Neil Armstrong, Christopher Columbus, Galileo, Bismark, Darwin, Plato, Pasteur, Bach, Picasso, Shakespeare, Baudelaire, Dumas, Dickens, Freud, Nietzsche, Kant, Voltaire, Habsburg, Martin Luther King, JFK, De Gaulle, Marx, Bell, Tesla or Leonardo Da Vinci were, but they don't care, because cheating at tests is the more efficient approach to getting decent-enough grades. And anyway, these dudes are all dead, so why waster their precious time learning who they were? They also sometimes outright refuse to do P.E., for mysterious "cultural reasons that you can not understand because you are not part of Khmer culture".
They think that spending 500$ in booze at Riverhouse Lounge or Rock on a Wednesday evening is no big deal. They're drunk beyond reason after two shots and their barang-friends take advantage of the remaining $490 worth of booze in the private, stuffy "Premium Super VVIP" room filled with 80ies Karaoke music, fake leather and bored hostesses who realize they won't get a couple of hundreds in their bra as tip, at least not from the stingy Barangs. The RKK are the future elite and leaders of the country, and they don't give a flying fuck, which might give them some charm. I find them scary.
- - The Missionary Kids:
During classes in French (80% of all classes), they take notes in Korean, because they're super-humans who can listen to a teacher, understand what he's trying to explain, and translate it simultaneously before writing it down quickly enough to keep track. They sink into depression, when you, the kid who just doesn't need to work to get good grades, gets admitted at the prestigious university and they don't. Yes, you've shaken their faith! But whatever, their Hello Kitty fetish will get them through these times of troubles and make their inner peace come back, eventually.
- - The Bar Kids:
The dad is usually a fat fuck, and it really defies reason to think that that sweaty piece of barang failure created the aesthetic wonder that his daughter is. The mom is a broken shell, addicted to ice or booze, destroyed by years of unhappiness and hard, degrading physical work, whose former beauty can still be felt if the room is not too bright and if she doesn't try to utter a few words of broken English, in a broken voice. They know what they look like, and try to hide it with heaps of golden jewelry, whitening cream and layers of makeup. They try to look "respectable". They are the proud owners of a bar or a restaurant, their reward after a hard life of sacrifices. After you get to know them, they are by far the most genuine and down-to-earth people you'll meet at the school, and they can be a refreshing change from the typical Ambre-clothed expat mother who holds the moral values of a 4,99$ self-help book.
Bar kids are fucked up, but they're fun, lively, curious, and unpretentiously friendly. They don't care about your opinions on prostitution, your social class, your wealth nor your origins, and would like you to do the same. They just want to have a bit of fun, damnit. Sometimes it goes too far and you can see a drunk 16 year-old girl starting to strip naked at Reggae Bar because she had one too many. But it's not her fault, she'd prefer to do it indoors, but she's banned from Howie's for life!
A common scenario is the "my real dad is in Battambang but my mom got married with her sugar daddy and he adopted me, so now he's my daddy too, but he did not adopt my 5 brothers and sisters, which is why they're not in this school" situation. That's often weird and interesting, sometimes fascinating, and one's curiosity increases exponentially after every 5AM pillow talk, a chat usually filled with human tragedy, darkness, and the realization that the very conversation you are having right now is an anomaly of chance, a strange combination of serendipity, globalization and absurd causality. The Bar Kids are my favorite, and they have a talent for breaking my heart.
- - The Others:
- - The Weirdos:
We are usually the only ones who have visited the country before settling down. Most of us end up learning Khmer, to some extent. We like to mix with every group and develop machiavellian strategies to take advantage of our unusual situation: Be friends with the expat kids so that you can enjoy their swimming-pool, be courteous to the military kids so they leave you alone or occasionally take care of dirty business for you, suck up to the RKK because luxury, money, corruption and power don't leave anyone indifferent, and because in Cambodia, they are addictively fascinating, in an almost scientific kind of way. Be cool with the missionary kids because you're still a polite chap, and because they might come in handy for homework or group assignments. Just sit back and watch them work, it's quite entertaining, really, and you're making them happy as a bonus. Of course, give the bar kids what they want, especially if they're hot. Take them on a midnight motorcycle ride to the other side of the bridge, to the now-defunct "Blue Bar", a.k.a. Maxine's, which was the last true piece of paradise in Phnom Penh, and you'd be handsomely rewarded in their preferred currency, namely broken hearts, bruised egos and sporadic bursts of mind-numbing voluptuousness. But don't take advantage, which is often easier said than (not) done, you'd regret it.
If you're a political freak, don't befriend other weirdos, they are your competition after all. But if you're just a regular dude, why the hell not. My two best friends at LFRD were brothers whose mother was an amazing, world renowned Swiss-Italian artist, who decided to settle down in Cambodia for a few years because after extensive testing, she found that the Khmer vegetation allowed her to produce a unique kind of paper, on which she drew her art. Weirdos indeed, but still interesting and diverse people, and after all it's the people that made those few years so... intense.
Mix all these groups together, add a cloud of culture-shock, half a measure of language-barriers, a generous amount of ideological incompatibility, perhaps a hint of racism and a coating of ethnocentrism, add a bit of sex, hormones, competition, arrogance, lies, tradition, religion, History, testosterone, tragedy, over-zealous parental control, love and of course complete and utter idiocy - and there you have it. This was LFRD during my years here, a constant epicenter of drama and a breeding ground for self-absorbed, culturally-split teenagers lost in the giant village clusterfuck that is modern Phnom Penh. The key was to make sure you were in a position to enjoy the show, and perhaps preservation instincts quickly taught be to be a spectator, rather than an actor, when stuff got crazy.
At the time, this social landscape seemed natural, easy, and actually quite normal - but in hindsight I ask myself how the hell I managed to play that game, for which I was absolutely not prepared, and which I was not even aware of.
Of course, moving back to Europe to pursue higher studies was like a very cold shower for most of us. A harsh awakening from the stimulating mess that Phnom Penh was when we left it. I don't think I've ever fully adapted - or wanted to adapt - to my life in France, and I had this itch that I just couldn't scratch: I HAD to come back. (I won't lie, there also was a girl, but whatever, there always is.) Add a depression to that, as well as health issues and a complete lack of interest in my studies, and I had enough reasons to actually justify coming back. Not to mention a bloody broken heart that just wouldn't heal.
Of course, it wasn't the same thing. I didn't have to navigate the weird LFRD ecosystem. For a while I tried enjoying bars and talking to strangers, but it all seemed so dull and boring. I discovered I actually hate alcohol, which was ultimately a good thing, because it let me focus on rebuilding myself physically and emotionally. Perhaps I became too focused on work, or perhaps I sank into a daily routine that just lacked the excitement I was expecting. Not to sound like a junkie, but you could compare the feeling to building a strong tolerance to a drug and not getting the amazing effects of those first few magical hits anymore.
A former classmate, also from the "weirdo" category, moved back last year after getting a BA in Khmer studies & language. He had all the tools needed to avoid fucking up, including serious funds. Now he's a serial-whoremonger who completely forgot what the real world is like. This place destroys people.
In the three and some years I was gone, Phnom Penh has of course changed. Buildings are a story higher. Cars are bigger an shinier. Traffic has increased by a factor of ten, and Phnom Penh is using more power than the government can supply, resulting in constant outages. A few hidious buildings have shot up from the ground on Russian Blvd, symbolizing a strong and confident government, another symptom of Cambodia's tendency to dig totalitarian holes for itself. But you already know all that.
I now see Cambodia indulging in an optimism that I don't really know how to justify - perhaps I'm excessively sensitive to the complete absence of education, elites, ambition, rule of law, ethics, and vision that is so apparent here. I'm certainly also aware of the fact that growing GDP numbers and the construction of a few malls is not the kind of growth that Cambodia really needs right now. Economic growth means nothing if the rich become richer and the poor don't benefit, forgive me if I sound socialist.
I don't think Cambodia will find satisfaction in becoming a mere Chinese suburb, ruled by corrupt and vain men who see the country as nothing more than a vast array of cogs and wheels working in unison to fill their bank accounts. Perhaps they will realize that true development and progress doesn't mean big cars, but the lack of need for big cars, or the respect of the rule of law, or things like healthcare and a solid infrastructure rather than pretty fountains around the independence monument, or the construction of a flyover fueled by the hopes of wowing a few ASEAN leaders who probably did not even notice it. Or filling a lake, simultaneously destroying lives for, as far as I can see, absolutely nothing beneficial to the country. Or yet another bank coming to saturate Cambodia's tiny market. And so on.
Just because "things are better than they were 20 years ago" (how many times have I heard this?) doesn't mean they're good enough. 20 years ago the country was recovering from a genocide, of course things are better now, it's called the catch up effect and it's a tool used by ruling elites to convince lower classes that "look, the numbers are changing, so we must be doing our jobs right".
I wish Cambodia could unshackle itself from the trauma and stigma of the past century without becoming a stronghold of bureaucracy and over-regulation that now defines and paralyzes the west, but perhaps that's unavoidable.
The Khmer Rouge aftershock is subtle, and it takes time to see it (or at least it took me time), but it's definitely there and the whole country is acting as if it wasn't. Khmers are addicted to shortcuts, but there are none here. I think this is where the challenge lies, and this is what makes me pessimistic about the near-and-long-term future.
Voila. Of course, there are many more anecdotes that might become K440 material, like the giant fuckfest that was the weeklong baccalaureate exam in Bangkok, where 5 French schools shared the same hotel, or the time I went to a ladybar with a teacher, where I was unfortunate enough to witness him trying to flirt with middle-aged hookers in French. Or the time a monkey attacked our classroom and left some very visible claw scars on a friend of mine. Or the time my best friend's face appeared on the BBC homepage because he staged a protest outside the school when the administration decided to expel the few families that had been living on the top floor of an neighboring building for twenty years, without fair compensation. Or the time I wrote an article about Aung San Suu Kyi in the school paper, which was edited and censured without my knowledge, because Total, who is very present in Myanmar, was also the sole sponsor of scientific equipment for the school lab. Or the time I went for a dip in the black canal of Toul Sleng (Tuk Suui) for the sake of science, and more importantly for a good grade on a research assignment. Or the year during which I was the only student in my class - Literature is not very popular, for some reason - and during which I basically got one-on-one lessons from teachers, which is a real luxury in any country. Or the time I was asked to babysit an autistic and deaf 6-year-old khmer girl, and was able to teach her how to read after long hours of frustrating but ultimately incredibly rewarding work. Or the time I shared a few beers (at Howie's again, duh) with a jolly-looking and talkative American grandpa, who eagerly confessed to me that he had been part of the KKK in the '60s and that he missed the Vietnam War, during which he could indulge in "getting rid of goddamn animals", and that he came back to Cambodia to die, because "this is where it all started after all". Or the time I was in Siem Reap, riding on the back of my girlfriend's motorcycle, which she took great care of steering straight into a very slow and very visible minivan, for reasons that only bar kids will ever understand. Or the time I got absurdly intoxicated and started writing random, endless stories and bullshit of mythical proportions on Khmer440.
Before I leave you to go get my shit together, I just want to make one thing clear: I truly love this place, and even though I may sound cynical and perhaps even bitter at times, that's just because I am disheartened by the downward spiral the country is in. Perhaps it also has something to do with me being - dare I say it - mature enough to understand that the utopia I thought I lived in during my Khmer adolescence (what a concept!) was not one at all. It was just one side of the story, the side of the privileged white kid who thought Cambodia was his playground.
Last edited by Khmerized on Sat Apr 27, 2013 5:40 am, edited 15 times in total.
That might be the best post I've ever read on here.
I'm glad I never moved here when I was 15. I'd be dead for sure.
Thanks for sharing that.
I'm glad I never moved here when I was 15. I'd be dead for sure.
Thanks for sharing that.
Some men you just can't reach. So you get what we had here last week, which is the way he wants it... well, he gets it. I don't like it any more than you men.
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I agree. Brilliant! Thanx for opening that window onto life as an expat kid in Cambodia. Should definitely be (lightly) edited and posted on the front page.MoodyMac wrote:That might be the best post I've ever read on here.
I'm glad I never moved here when I was 15. I'd be dead for sure.
Thanks for sharing that.
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Oh! My! God!
By far the best post I've ever read. Seriously, it's a masterpiece! Spot on in so many funny ways!
I'll have to read this again just for entertainment!
I'll remember this when it's time to vote for "best post" next time!
Also, there is nothing you can say or do to convince me that English ISN'T your native tongue! If only other native English speakers could write so well.
I definitely think this has to be turned into a front page article or something, this is way too good to be buried in some random thread! The descriptions of the different groups here are truly a classic!
Goodnight.
By far the best post I've ever read. Seriously, it's a masterpiece! Spot on in so many funny ways!
I'll have to read this again just for entertainment!
I'll remember this when it's time to vote for "best post" next time!
Also, there is nothing you can say or do to convince me that English ISN'T your native tongue! If only other native English speakers could write so well.
I definitely think this has to be turned into a front page article or something, this is way too good to be buried in some random thread! The descriptions of the different groups here are truly a classic!
Goodnight.
Moody mAc, you beat me to it.That might be the best post I've ever read on here.
Khmerized, you should get drunk more often. Chapeau pour cet excellent récit.
i'm kinda new here and not sure if i am allowed to freely express myself yet but damn! you're good!
please serialize this
please serialize this
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Bugger. Having spent the last hour reading the best post I've read all year I've refreshed to see a bunch of quicker readers stealing my thunder It's absolutely fucking brilliant K. Whatever you're smoking, keep smoking
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