I went to the ministry this morning. Wasn't really expecting to be successful but left within an hour with a new license.
Here is the process...
1. Go to The ministry of public work and transport. It is a pain to get to, it is quite far away from pretty much anywhere. Here is a Gmap:
https://www.google.com.kh/maps/place/Ge ... 8724?hl=en
You will need:
A - Three passport photos
B - Copies of your visa and passport (you need to bring the passport which is connected to your visa). There is a photocopy shop on site which will do it for you - unsurprisingly it is more expensive than normal shops but its not too bad - 500 riel for one copy.
C - If your address has changed then you need proof of new address, can be a housing contract (must be stamped by Sangkat) or a letter from employer
D - your old license
E - original passport (just to show them)
2. Go to the office a bit to the left of the compound entrance with a sign above the door saying something like license renewal/application. Tell them you want to renew & show your old license. They will give you a folder with a form for medical test and ask you to go for a medical test.
3. You leave this office and take a right, walk nearly as far as you can, and enter the last building on the right. If you reach the car practical test area you have gone too far.
4. Enter the medical test building and directly in front of you is a blue sign pointing left saying health check. I think it was only in Khmer so if you cant read khmer you may want to familiarise yourself with this phrase (ពិនិត្យសុខភាព). Go down the short corridor and enter the first door on left. Previously there was a big queue here, but today there was no one waiting
5. Follow the signs and enter the room. Some of the staff speak English. Ahead and slightly to the right is the first table. Go and sit down there. The guy will take the folder and form given to you in the first office and one photo. He will ask you some questions, address, height, weight etc then you will do an eye test. You have to read a number chart from about 12 feet away. Then he sends you onto the next desk where you pay the first fee, 10,000 riel, you'll get a receipt for this. Stick it in your folder and move on to the 'doctor' for the medical assessment. He hardly lifts his head as he ticks the boxes to say you have arms, legs & eyes. Medical test complete.
6. Go back to the first office, clutching your folder. Complete the info on the front of the folder (name, address etc.) put your photocopies and photogaphs inside the folder and give to the guy behind counter 1. He will check it all then give you a payment slip and tell you to go and make payment.
7. Leave this office, holding your growing pile of docs and go to the WING kiosk. Give them your payment slip and 30,000 riel plus 1,000 service charge. they will process payment and you'll get an SMS confirming payment. They'll give you a receipt, and you got it - it goes in your folder.
8. Go back to the first office to counter 1 and give them your mighty pile of docs. He will ask you to sit down for a few mins. After only about 5 mins (though maybe just because there was no other people there) he will come out with a printed form and ask you to check all the information and sign and date it. Read it, check it and sign it. Then wait some more.
9. After a further 5 minute wait counter number 2 springs into action. You are called forward and given a piece of thin cardboard with your picture and details and you are asked to sign a book to say you have received it. This flimsy piece of paper is your license, i thought it was a temporary license but no, this is it.
10. Go home.
11. On the way home i stopped at a copy shop and asked them to laminate my license. 1,000 riel more.
Total cost 42,000 riel ($10.5)
Total time c. 50 minutes start to finish (not including travelling time
Whilst there was frivolous, unnecessary steps between offices, i found the whole experience pretty simple. If you don't speak & cant read Khmer then you will find it a little bit more difficult. But take a mate with you and it'll be easy enough.
The staff did speak some English and on the whole were very pleasant and friendly. If agents are indeed stopped from processing foreigner renewals, it is reassuring to know that the process isn't terrible, albeit the location is a pain in the ass - thankfully all is complete on one visit, unlike previous.
Also $10.5 total cost vs agent fees of $35...