Trip report, Mondulkiri

[SunSan]

Went on a short trip to Sen Monorom in Mondulkiri a week ago.
We left Siem Reap at four in the morning in a minivan, reached Skuon at 08:00, where we had breakfast and met up with some other friends. At 09:30 we left Skuon, reaching what must have been Anchanh around 13:00 for lunch. There's a restaurant at the junction, food was local, plentiful and ok. Once off the main road the going slowed down. Intitially very smooth for the first odd 20 minutes, it rapidly turned very bad after the turnoff towards the Vietnamese border. We stopped at Keo Shei Ma for a snack of fertilised duck eggs (my friends) and tak krelok (for me). The local gold shop had 100 000 Riel notes, the first time I've ever seen them. We reached Sen Monorom after nightfall, could have been around 19:00. That would mean we took 5 hours for the 124km from the main road! An indication of the quality of the road. Saw some Camrys pass us and there's a regular bus service from Phnom Penh to Sen Monorom serviced by Hua Lian. I saw one of their broken- down buses on the way there (and on the way back, a couple of days later...) and they have a smallish office on the main road in town.
During our time there I saw 6 foreigners and about 20 Khmer tour groups. Accommodation is plentiful, lots of guest houses all along the main road, quite a few restaurants and one new hotel. That's where we stayed, it's called the Oeurn Sakona Hotel, 012 950680 or 011 950680. Hot water and air con rooms on the ground and 1st floor, no hot water, no air con (don't need it anyway) on the 2nd floor. I'd think the guest houses offer similar quality rooms in the 10- 15USD range. Still don't know why we stayed there...
On the only full day we had there we visited a Dak Dam hill tribe village, two waterfalls, Sen Monorom and Bousra, and saw an ethnic minority cultural show in the evening. Unfortunately their performance was part of a bigger karaoke affair and just when I wanted to start taking photos the dancers were joined by a horde of Cambodians, nixing my idea of some nice pics of the hilltribe dances.
The falls were nice but I'd only ever go back to see Bousra. On the track down to the falls there are stalls selling food, drink and cigarettes and there's an elephant that can be ridden for 15 minute walks for 5000 Riels per person. It fits 3. Care is needed if you decide to go down to the foot of the second fall. The wooden stairs are built solidly enough but if wet can be extremely dangerous. It's practically a straight 25- 30m fall. At the first fall there are Khmer style, roofed bamboo platforms for rent.
The third day was spent trying to get back. The minivan broke down and we got a lift to Keo Shei Ma from where we needed to rent a pick- up. The place is a bit boring for a 6 hour forced stay, only offering a market that's mildly interesting, a couple of shops selling snacks in front of it and a restaurant about 100 m down the road towards Snuol that serves ok food. The pick- up driver charged us 120 USD for the return to Phnom Penh (not that bad if in a biggish group, we were 9). We stopped for some nom pang in Kampong Cham, there are three shops selling that and rice porridge right on the main roundabout. The middle one seems to be the best, the other two were empty anyway. Lots of places around for a normal sit- down meal, we just didn't have the time. Got into Phnom Penh around 22:00, I went straight to my hotel, the Town/City View Hotel on 111 St. just off Sihanouk Blvd. (yes, I've gone up- market, no more Asia Hotel for me).
So, how would I rate Mondulkiri? Ok for curious first- timers, the temperature was nice, Bousra falls were worthwhile, the accomodation and restaurant situation is good enough. There's an internet cafe that's also the only non- hotel/restaurant place that is nice enough to have a beer at, didn't try getting online. But would I go again? I seriously doubt it.
Lots of people ask which province in the northeast is more worth going to, Ratanakiri or Mondulkiri? I've now been to both and would always recommend going to Ban Lung instead of Sen Monorom. Not because the road there is better (just 2- 2.5 hours of dirt road from the turnoff at Stung Treng) but because there's so much more to see. In my opinion Ratanakiri beats Mondulkiri easily hands down.

Main drag, Sen Monorom City


On the way to the Dak Dam village


On the way back, towards Sen Monorom Waterfalls


Bousra Waterfalls, the first fall


Bousra, the second fall


Old landing strip in the middle of town


Monument between main road and landing strip


On the way back, 'stranded' in Keo Shei Ma


Riding the Iron Pick- up


Khmer riding the iron motorbike on the iron pick- up, respect!

[Playboy]

Excellent write up SS

It has been a while since I got out of town into the more rural parts, I could do with a break from city life for a few days.
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[gavinmac]

[Fox Mulder]

A good place to stay out in Mondulkiri is The Mahogany Guesthouse. Managed by Kevin former latenight drinker on the strip and Bayon Pearnik runabout.
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[marklatham]

Sounds shithouse to me.
I am out of town at BKK1,why would you want to go any further?
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[Playboy]

[Guest]