A Rotten Fish Pong In Battambang

I hired a crap bicycle that kept losing a pedal and went in search of what I’d been told was one of the smelliest places in the world – Cambodia’s prahok-making hub, Phsar Prahok, on the banks of the Sangker river, a few miles from Battambang. How anyone could ever…

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A Public Flogging In Sihanoukville

It happened when I was drinking in a bar one night in Sihanoukville. Seats emptied and expats, tourists, and Khmer staff descended into the street, attracted by the primordial sound of someone or something in pain. There were screams and boozy shrieks all the time on that road. But this…

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Tight-Fisted Backpackers In Mondulkiri

I was sitting in a restaurant in Mondulkiri, listening to backpackers haggling over elephant rides – “That one’s a very bullshit operation for the elephants…Yeah, but we got offered two bucks cheaper from the other guy” – when Brendan finally called. “Hey, So Pheakj forgot to wake me again. Do…

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