Category Archives: Travel


An Expat Joins ‘Precept Day’ in Cambodia

precept day

I first became aware of Precept Day when I was awoken from sleep by the sound of 20 ancient Khmers chanting outside my bedroom door. The old people were sat on the tiled floor of the head monk’s residence chanting…

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A Psycho-geography of BKK1, Phnom Penh

Bkk1

Three kings and one dictator watch BKK1, Phnom Penh’s exclusive district. To the north, lies the late king Sihanouk with his effigy is rendered in concrete on a road island. The southern border is held in place by Sihanouk’s allay,…

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By the Rivers of Battambang

Battambang_flood

OK, it’s the finale of rainy season 2013. It was PchumBenh weekend, so what could go possibly wrong? Last PchumBenh found me in Siem Reap, out in the swamps doing a bit of Buddhism and chowing the family ‘pet’. This…

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Accidental Sleaze

sleazy_fat_indian

Shane Thomas goes clubbing with a Khmer student in Bangkok and discovers that globalization is as pervasive in the sleaze industry as in the car, call center or garment industries. “You wan’ play pool?” Said Dom. “Er OK, sure”. I…

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Fear and Loathing on the Siem Reap-Phnom Penh Night Bus

naomi-nightbus

I finished work late Friday night, so in order to make the most of the weekend we decided to take the overnight bus at midnight. This would put us in Phnom Penh by 6:30 the next morning, give us two…

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Village Coffee Wars

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Fed up with Costa, Brown, Gloria Jean, Spinelli and other soulless, corporate Starbucks wannabees? Nathan Thompson reviews the homely Khmer coffee shops in his village many miles away from the glitz of Phnom Penh’s BKK1. We douse ourselves in coffee….

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Angkor Wat’s Geoglyph Gardens

Xinghua China3

A June 2013 UNESCO report on the first “lidar” aerial laser survey of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, which exposes topography under tree canopy, has revealed a mysterious geoglyph attached to this great temple dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. The…

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My Unusual Relationship with the Cambodian Crocodile Lady

pedro crocs 1

We’ve all got to take time out once in a while to relax and unwind, right? Stress relief can be multifaceted, taking the form of sports, fine wine, cigars, rub n’ tugs or having needles stuck into the spine by…

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Whitebait, Guinness and Rollmops – Khmer Culinary Faves from the UK

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‘I miss the rollmops, delicious, just like prahok…. but I don’t really like Cornish pasties,’ my husband informs our friends back here in Phnom Penh upon our return from our two-month trip back to my homeland. Being in the UK…

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My Cambodian Traffic Jam Hell

Traffic accidents are the primary cause of accidental deaths in Cambodia and on Saturday morning, August 3rd my friend Jude and I took a passenger van from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh at 7:30 am. A trip in these vans…

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