serey sophorn village

Clarke Illmatical describes his attempts to adjust to live in Cambodia and the way the locals think and behave, and on the way learns how to deal with face, why white girl / localguy relationships are doomed to fail and – closer to home – how he is perceived as a black man in …

fortunetelle hands

Fortune telling, prophecies and finding ways to influence fate form the backbone of Cambodian culture. Such things are intricately woven into ancestor worship, the spirit world and more orthodox ideas of Theravada Buddhist teachings. The above prophecy is known to pretty much every Khmer old enough to have heard it (go on, ask), and …

Cambodia Rolls Royce

People love to look down on each other. Even those at the lowest of the low finds someone else to judge. Hell, when I was addicted to heroin I looked down on the alcoholic who lived downstairs. “The poor bastard is destroying himself,” I’d think after waking up to find myself face down …


A country’s flag is a symbol; as is the act of changing one. Cambodia’s history is rife with coups, invasions and occupations which has not only fomented regime change but has also provided the impetus for the flag’s numerous transformations over the years. Since 1863, there have been numerous different national flags, including periods …

group harvesting rice

I felt a little guilty after my last piece. It’s easy to sit back and pick holes in things for cheap laughs and it’s not too difficult, living among the privations of village life, to find foibles left, right and centre. So, to counter that and rebalance my kharmic merit, here are four awesome …

Indian food 3 (2)

Steven Lee checks out the Prime Minister’s favourite Indian Restaurant, and is impressed by both the restaurant and the food, despite it being a bit off the beaten track after a recent move.


Jon Allen is in Siem Reap for the holiday season and tries to explain the concept of Santa Claus to his Khmer brother. His brother rightly thinks he is a complete nutjob.

aeon crowds

Pedro Milladino takes a trip to Aeon Mall against his better judgement, and finds himself confronted by lies, lies and more damned lies.


Nathan Thompson returns to Cambodia and settles again into village life. Here he lists three key things to avoid if you want to stay sane in your Cambodian rural idyll.

peter hogan

The former owner and admin of Khmer440 died suddenly yesterday, aged 49. gavinmac’s portrait of keeping_it_riel remembers a friend (and occasional foe) who had an unforgettable impact on Phnom Penh expat life.