After scaling the 358 stone steps up the recently renovated stairwell you will have a commanding view for miles around Phnom Banan.

Looking down below the steep stairwell and slightly beyond into the rice fields you’ll notice, quite clearly, the remains of the abandoned …

opp vanaks

Tourist season here is in full swing, a conspicuous manifestation of which is the number of redfaced people charging around town in their holiday socks and sandals talking loudly to one another. They even appear to outnumber the enthusiastic hot gospellers and, being …


New Bird II: the return to eat
No 4, Street 278. Tel: 012 42 95 42

After having such a surprisingly good brunch here the other week, I was passing by on a trip out of the office and decided to treat myself to an …


A firm funded largely by Singaporeans and which runs a chain of private education centres?is on the verge of financial collapse in Vietnam. The Singapore International Teaching Consultancy (SITC) has had to close at least seven of its branches in various Vietnamese cities.

Khmer440 reports:

This …

Once a week or so I stop at a local sidewalk restaurant on Sisowath Quay for quail. I?d occasionally see them at supermarkets in the states and think they were too small to bother with. I took me two years living in Phnom Penh to discover them; now I?m a devotee. They?re very tasty and, well, one good thing is you can?t get fat eating them because it just takes too long.
At any rate, this isn?t about quail it?s about the sea of asphalt that lies just north of the restaurant, which sets up against the metal fence that marks the construction site that once housed the Tourism Ministry. The pavement in question stretches from the circle of green where Sotheros meets Sisowath to Street 154.

I?m often struck by the number of tourist types that will pass me by heading towards the pavement only to reappear heading back again after a very short time. They obviously reach the vast traffic morass, with its vehicles going in even more directions than is common here, and turn back.

jug ear

Do Khmer women have bigger ears than Western women?Yes, I know a few Khmer girls who vaguely resemble Dumbo the elephant or Wayne Rooney…

The Lord Playboy Fine Dining Register

Sher ? E – Punjab
Indian, Muglai, Punjab, Cuisine

No. 16, Street 130, Sangkat Kandal, Phnom Penh.
Tel: 023 992 901
Open 11:00 AM until 11:00 PM

As we entered the restaurant, at 6PM on a Sunday evening, we were surprised to see that there was only one table left free. For a restaurant that has only been open for three weeks, and has done no advertising yet, that is quite a feat. Even more so in a city likes Phnom Penh where the restaurant and bar markets are already oversaturated.

Taking the last free table we are handed menus by a smiling Khmer girl, whom then returns to fill up our glasses with iced water; swiftly dispensing with that nonsense we order up some large, 1 litre, bottles of Beer Lao, US$2. No sooner had we returned to the menus, when our smiling, yet nervous, waitress returned bearing complimentary poppadom and pickles.

After we had placed our order, with a very well spoken young Indian lad, we started discussing the various merits of the other existing curry houses in Phnom Penh, we had got no further than saying a few harsh things about one certain establishment when the charming young lad had reappeared with three complementary glass of Johnny Walker Black; the reason he gave was ?because it is Sunday?, well, never let it be said that I did not like Sundays? ? chin chin.

mine garden

The rain-damaged and badly potholed road from Battambang to S’dau has received a quick patch up, but for miles out of Battambang the air remained thick with petrol fumes and dust kicked up by dilapidated trucks which were blasting their horns whilst transporting …


”Say, did you see Hannibal last night,” Charles asks me.

”Yeah, it was on the pirate TV channel. You saw it too?”

”I was up late.”

I laugh. Charles and I spend a lot of time working together and then sometimes drinking together.

So when we go …


Part One: The Western Stop Offs, East of Monivong

Street 278 is part of my daily rat-run to the office and back. Four times a day I drive up and down its length from Wat Mohomontrei all the way to its conclusion at Street …