Tag Archives: battambang

A Khmer New Year Story


Our maid (Ta) was robbed today, in the ordinary fashion. She was riding pillion on a motodup (motorcycle taxi) when a couple of young guys on a passing moto ripped her bags from her shoulder. She probably appeared an easy…

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End Of The Line For Cambodia’s Quirky Bamboo Train

removing train

I went back to cooking at the restaurant for a few days to help my friend Josh out. He was in a sorry state. He was heading up to a province near Phnom Penh with his Cambodian wife to see…

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Before the Laughter Began – Dara Than’s Story


Deep furrows run from the corners of Dara Than’s eyes. They come from countless smiles that cause his face to contort as he bashfully covers his mouth, as wheezy explosions of laughter wrack his rotund body when something strikes him…

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Battambang, Cambodia

Introduction Named after the vast, colourful and distinctive statue that squats imposingly at the Highway 5 roundabout (on the way to and from Phnom Penh) Battambang is Cambodia’s second city and the new kid on the tourist and traveller’s block….

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Battambang Bars Update


If a stranger had told me three years ago that Battambang was ripe for a host of foreign owned drinking bars then I’d have immediately convened a psychiatric conference in Vienna to consider his possible treatment. Back then at night…

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Bambi and Chips in Battambang


You’d hardly notice it, tucked away down a central but quiet and slightly gritty side road near the train station, Jip Sreng was the world’s gloomiest aircraft hanger – a vast bleak ballroom of a place more or less empty…

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Chhay Vet: UNTAC in Battambang


In 1991 I was nineteen years old and Cambodia still had a very tightly controlling Communist government. My country hadn’t opened up and it was only recently that the Vietnamese soldiers had left. You can imagine, therefore, the great shock…

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Two More Battambang Suppers


I inwardly groaned when Chhay Vet suggested schlepping out into the wilderness on the edge of Battambang to hit yet another fried beef place, but Goh Dut, which we can translate literally as Burnt Cow, was quite different as the…

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Supper and Breakfast in Battambang


We’d planned to take last night’s supper just out of town at ‘the restaurant with three wives,’ Chhay Vet and myself, mainly because I was highly curious to see the owner, a man with not one, not two but three…

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Chhay Vet: Battambang Rain Gambling


‘An odd and puzzling feature of this town was that many people looked at the sky for long periods of time, pointing at the clouds, and they did this from morning till sunset. We thought they were plane spotting or…

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