Tag Archives: travel


K440 Expat Interviews: ‘Horace’

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After stumbling into Cambodia 15 years ago, long-term expat Horace has made the country his home. Marissa Carruthers talks to him about the highs and the lows and how Cambodia has changed over the years. “I much preferred the Cambodia…

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Where Life Slows Down and Silence Rushes In: The Lazy Beach Experience

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It’s rush hour in Lazy Beach, which means there are six people floating in the azure water watching the late afternoon sun disappear into the Gulf of Thailand. There’s no noise from hammering, shouting or motorbikes. Only the distant buzzing…

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The Fall Of Victory Hill

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A few years ago, Victory Hill was the backpacking hub of Sihanoukville with enough customers to fill the sea with gold. But since then gravity has definitely moved down the hill to Ochheuteal Beach and the now-thriving Otres Beach area….

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Back to School, Past the River of Smell…

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After a pretty hectic December I now fall happily back into my happy, humdrum routine. It’s great to feel the warm but un-aggressive ‘cool season’ sun crawl up from behind during a 6am balcony coffee before embarking on a refreshingly…

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Here Be Dragons: Navigating Battambang

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An old term used to denote areas of the sea that hadn’t been navigated, ‘here be dragons’ is an apt metaphor for exploring the sleepy backwater that is also Cambodia’s second largest city. Quaint. Charming. Old colonial architecture. Those are…

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Phnom Penh: It’s All About The River

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Phnom Penh is no gigantic metropolis, no sprawling mega-city, no endless urban expanse. Yet still it manages to be an incomprehensible orderly riot of humanity: ugly surprises, elegant demises, fitting fates for all sizes. No easy answers, no succinct demography,…

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A Public Flogging In Sihanoukville

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It happened when I was drinking in a bar one night in Sihanoukville. Seats emptied and expats, tourists, and Khmer staff descended into the street, attracted by the primordial sound of someone or something in pain. There were screams and…

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Things To Do In Phnom Penh With Your Mum

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My mum’s tight grip on the pole of the tuk-tuk from the Pochentong airport was to be expected. I have seen it before with many a visitor and I remember my own first journey: sniffing the whiff of heat and…

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My Dance with Death – Notes from a Dengue Virgin

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After five years here I had escaped it long enough – it was time for a dance with dengue. It started on a random Tuesday evening. My last class is at 6:30PM – no one’s idea of late – but…

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Tight-Fisted Backpackers In Mondulkiri

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I was sitting in a restaurant in Mondulkiri, listening to backpackers haggling over elephant rides – “That one’s a very bullshit operation for the elephants…Yeah, but we got offered two bucks cheaper from the other guy” – when Brendan finally…

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