***This is a "prototype" kind of review for vehicles specifically here in Cambodia. Any feedback and suggestions to improve the reviews specifically for Cambodia feel free to comment. I would have added information on where to repair and find parts for these cars, but I have no suggestions or recommendations unfortunately so I apologize for the lack of shop info***
1997 - 2001 Honda CR-V Review
Years Produced: 1997-2001 (U.S. versions)
Engines:
Honda B20B (1997 & 1998)
1973cc inline 4 cylinder (16v)
126 bhp @ 5,400 rpm (94 kw)
133ft/lb @ 4,800 rpm (180 nm)
Honda B20Z (1999-01)
1973cc inline 4 cylinder (16v)
143 bhp @ 6,200 rpm (107 kw)
133 ft/lb @ 5,600 rpm (180 nm)
Transmission:
5 speed manual
4 speed automatic
Curb Weight:
1,480 kg (3,265 lbs) 98 ‘EX manual AWD
(auto weighs more)
0-62 (100 km/h)
126 hp AWD auto (97 & 98)
12.1 seconds
143 hp AWD auto (99 - 01)
10.5 seconds
Fuel Economy Rating (AWD versions, manual and automatic):
22.8/27.6 mpg (imp)
19/23 mpg US
12.4 - 10.2L / 100 km
8.1 - 9.8 km/l
*Bold indicates original unit of measurement the ratings were created in.
Competitors: Toyota Rav 4 (1997-2000)
WHAT CAN YOU EXPECT FROM A GENERATION 1 CRV IN CAMBODIA?
Performance:
The 97 and 98 CRV have to make due with an underwhelming 126 hp, and with a rather hefty curb weight of 3300 lbs and coupled to a low torque rev happy type of engine, the CRV is by the far the slowest of the “soft-roader” class of this generation commonly available in Cambodia. 0-100 km/h happens in over 12 seconds for an automatic in the pre 99’ models and 10.5 seconds for the 143 hp motors (99-2001) which is still an entire second slower than a Toyota Prius III.
Off road performance:
The CR-V, not being a truly offroad SUV, was developed mostly for the kind of consumer who wanted car like fuel economy out of a taller vehicle and the peace of mind of having “4 wheel drive” available when needed. To accomplish their fuel mileage and all wheel drive goals, Honda makes use of a system called “Real Time AWD” which, in simple terms, drives the vehicle in 2wd mode 100% of the time unless the front wheels start to lose traction or slip. Once they do, in a fraction of a second (.28 according to Honda) a small clutch pack (and I do mean small) locks up and sends a little power (roughly 20% peak) to the rear wheels. Once you regain traction the clutch pack disengages and you are back in 2wd mode. Because this setup utilizes the rear drive axles so rarely, Honda was able to make use of a very small rear driveline seen here.
Above is the similarly powered AWD Ford Escape, and below is the AWD CRV. Note the CV axle is roughly half of the diameter on the Honda.
While this automated “traction aid” system can be useful for the family grocery getting in semi slippery conditions, it is hardly optimal for the serious off roader. Key off-roading features that were never available even as options include the ability to lock the CRV in all wheel drive mode and the ability to lock the center and rear differentials. The lack of locking differentials just means that in very slippery conditions, your CRV effectively becomes either “left or right wheel drive”. If you really need to traverse muddy rural country roads, be warned that it’s quite easy to get stuck in a CRV (I know, I’ve done it more than once).
To give Honda credit though, the CRV does alright when it comes to semi slippery conditions such as gravel roads and wet tarmac. However due to it’s Civic platform chassis, light duty engine and drivetrain coupled to an incomplete all wheel drive system, you will very likely going to be straining the capabilities of your car based SUV over the limit when the going gets tough, so at least in my opinion, the CR-V should NOT be considered for the serious off roader but rather for the occasional deluge and mandatory muddy road crossing.
Fuel Economy:
(7.5 - 9.5 km/l on average)
Probably due to the extra weight the CRV has to lug around vs. the Rav4, it is slightly worse on fuel but isn’t horrendous by any means for an SUV in Cambodia. If you average above 8 km/l with semi mixed city/highway driving, you’re doing well for yourself. Whichever CRV you choose to buy, should it be the low compression 97-98 or the higher 99-01), a minimum of 86-87 octane fuel (R+M/2) is required so straight regular fuel here is not a recommended option, although it can be used in a pinch with reduced fuel economy and performance.
Reliability:
Minor reliability:
(Probably amongst the best available)
Hondas of this age were well built and well engineered in terms of being reliable and not hugely maintenance intensive. The two most common minor complaints that I have heard from CR-V owners (myself included), were the differential oil getting contaminated and causing a lot of groaning noises from the rear, and the occasional failed ball joint.
Major Reliability:
(Not bombproof, but still very good)
Having owned 2 1st generation CR-Vs in my family, there are two present issues that can cause concern as both are potentially very expensive (listed below). However, if these issues are taken into account beforehand, then as a vehicle they are solid when it comes to overall reliability. Everything else about the first generation CR-V is great regarding both the engine and transmission, front wheel drive or all wheel drive, manual and automatic. Not many vehicles can boast that kind of claim to reliability like the CR-V can.
Issue #1 (most important): Valve clearances. Honda, to make it seem like the CRV was not a maintenance intensive vehicle, decided to publish their owner’s manual regarding valve adjustments for the U.S. market, as needing attention every 105,000 miles. On the other hand for every other market, the CRV’s recommended interval was 30,000 miles. So even keen owners of CRVs that adhered to every bit of the maintenance schedule, were driving their cars into the ground for 65,000 miles while the exhaust valves tightened themselves up and smashed the cylinder head to bits.
To rectify this problem, simply get the valves adjusted if you choose to buy one.
If the catalytic converter code pops up, you probably have engine damage (burning inefficiently and essentially melting the converter). If your CRV runs rough and spark plugs / HT leads don’t do the job, you probably have engine damage or at the very least, improperly adjusted valves.
Issue #2: Drive/Propeller Shaft joint failure (AWD models only). The driveshaft (the big long piece of metal that connects the front wheels to the rear wheels highlighted in red here), is built so that the joints can not be repaired or replaced.
So a brand new driveshaft is required when any 1 of the 3 joints fails. When I had to do my own car (went at 160k miles), the part was $974 to replace not including my labor. Ouch. In comparison on a 2002 Range Rover HSE which has a repairable driveshaft, it would cost just $37 and to add insult to injury, it’s twice as strong.
The good news is though, the U-joints on CR-Vs are not known weak spots so they usually hang on for a good long while before needing replacement.
This is more of a heads up in case your driveshaft joints do fail rather than a “buyer beware”
If you own a CRV
Camshaft/Timing Belt: The cam belt is a required maintenance item and if not replaced, like many Hondas if it breaks, your engine will very likely need to be rebuilt or replaced.
Replace the water pump as well, however Honda water pumps and timing belts are usually very durable and don’t require any special care or precautions besides following the basic maintenance schedule.
Differential oil: Make sure you get the right differential oil and get it changed if you have the AWD model. Other oils will cause problems with your all wheel drive system as the system in the CR-Vs is 100% fluid actuated.
Valve clearances: You might think that if your vehicle runs fine and makes no noise then you are okay, but that’s not the case. When valve clearances are too tight, the valves are actually silent when it runs and there are no audible clues to tell if the clearances are too tight or not.
If your CRV is misfiring and you can’t figure out why, this might be the cause.
Summary:
Pros
-Generally very reliable
-Ground clearance and AWD capability is usually adequate for most driving and rainfall in Cambodia
-Decent fuel economy for a small SUV
Cons
-Underpowered (especially the 97 & 98’ models)
-Some of the parts / repairs are expensive
-Not a “true” off roader
Final Verdict
Due to it's hefty weight (compared to the 1st gen Rav4) and relatively flimsy drivetrain, the 1st generation Rav4 would be a wiser choice in general. However, if a good condition CRV comes your way don't hesitant to consider it as it is very reliable vehicle in it's own right.
1997-2001 Honda CR-V Review
Good job. Should do one for Lexus rx300 the most common SUV here. I think what people need to learn is what to look at in order to not buy a worthless car.
For example checking on the back passenger belts of Toyota at the bottom you find a tag with the car construction year. I noticed that the tag under the hood is often replaced with one that says a more recent year and they often cut the front belt labels but they often forget those on the back on. Noticed that at several car dealers all over pp. Highlander 2001 sold as 2004. I don't know much about what to look at under the hood or under the car in order to know if the car is OK.
For example checking on the back passenger belts of Toyota at the bottom you find a tag with the car construction year. I noticed that the tag under the hood is often replaced with one that says a more recent year and they often cut the front belt labels but they often forget those on the back on. Noticed that at several car dealers all over pp. Highlander 2001 sold as 2004. I don't know much about what to look at under the hood or under the car in order to know if the car is OK.
^^I used to have an RX300 so I'm pretty familiar with them. I'll get around to it
Reckless driving cucumber - 成
I narrowed down my choices to CRV, RAV 4 and Prius. It came down to a CRV and a RAV 4 - I choose the CRV because it felt more sturdy and I thought it may have been better maintained. Of course that choice was made based on those individual vehicles not overall model consideration as in the OP.
Separately, I do like the looks of the Lexus 330 models to 400. Hate the bigger models.
Separately, I do like the looks of the Lexus 330 models to 400. Hate the bigger models.
"Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach. Those who can't teach, teach English."
Credit Jacked Camry & LTO
Credit Jacked Camry & LTO
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- 20,000 Posts; I need professional help !
- Reactions: 2
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- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 2:31 pm
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I'm delighted you're doing these reviews again, A. I'm still in two minds as to whether to buy a new Mazda 3 or spend less on a decent second-hand motor. What I need is reliability more than anything else, so you've scared me off the Rav4 a bit! Will you be doing reviews of the old standards, the Camry and Corolla in addition to the smaller Lexus soon?
I came, I argued, I'm out
^^I have owned an old "box" Camry (89-92) in Cambodia, 02-06 Camry, as well as a 7th (93-97) and 8th (98-02) gen Corolla and RX300 so I can review those in the next little bit (although it's going to be mainly from memory), but the 97-01 Camry, 93-96 Camry, 88-92 Corolla, 03-08 Corolla, RX330, ES330, LX470, Tundra, etc are all vehicles I've owned in the states but not Cambodia, so those reviews might or might not be as well written and applicable, especially when it comes to fuel efficiency numbers, parts availability etc.
These reviews are destined for the sticky thread as well, so I'm a little more motivated to unload the reviews I've written onto somewhere where I know they'll be easier to access so I don't have to keep answering the same questions over and over. Not that I don't like helping, but it's more efficient this way.
These reviews are destined for the sticky thread as well, so I'm a little more motivated to unload the reviews I've written onto somewhere where I know they'll be easier to access so I don't have to keep answering the same questions over and over. Not that I don't like helping, but it's more efficient this way.
Reckless driving cucumber - 成
Sorry for missing the rest of the post. Either or, there are some ridiculously bad tricks I've seen dealers do here, and frankly it's why I imported all my own cars after a while because I couldn't stand the shit I saw. I'll post up tricks to keep the buyers informed, and maybe with a little help we can get a Khmer translation to get local customers more savy as well.jackrossi wrote:Good job. Should do one for Lexus rx300 the most common SUV here. I think what people need to learn is what to look at in order to not buy a worthless car.
For example checking on the back passenger belts of Toyota at the bottom you find a tag with the car construction year. I noticed that the tag under the hood is often replaced with one that says a more recent year and they often cut the front belt labels but they often forget those on the back on. Noticed that at several car dealers all over pp. Highlander 2001 sold as 2004. I don't know much about what to look at under the hood or under the car in order to know if the car is OK.
GMS440, you bring up a good point, condition of the vehicle itself is hugely important as well. It's most of the reason I ended up with some of the vehicles I did while I was in Cambodia, not because I actually liked the car itself.
Reckless driving cucumber - 成
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