Thank you.Lucky Lucan wrote:That's a fine-looking kitchen.
All things building
- PorkPiePorn
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The problem with the world is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
- PorkPiePorn
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One advantage of an insulated house and some double glazed windows would be noise transfer for sure. Needless to say, I do not have perfect hearing, so most general noises do not bother me. Yes, the weddings and funerals are still well noticed, but for that, theres Valium.Don-Pierre de Plume wrote:There was a time when I would have liked to build in Cambodia, but given up on that idea when I got to know the place better. Living behind walls and barbed wire and always having to be on guard for my life... and the fucking barking dogs all night...
I hear you about security. One night someone was knocking on our door at midnight, in a locked in enclosure. Buddy (barang) was drunk and sleeping at his friends who lived in the apartment above, and wanted me to open the gate for his girl, as she was not quite the monkey he was. It rattled me though, you don't expect that.
Anyhow, I am working on the security details and bars design for the building. I would like wrought iron in an artistic design, and affixed to the outside of the building. This means either in-swing windows, or double hung, which might be just as well. Then from the inside, I will have window glass, then screens and then ornamental yet functional metal bars fixed to the outside of the building. There is a way to do it nicely.
Some of these bars and gates have the potential to be dangerous. One could get locked inside a building. I did lock myself inside one house because, I was in the habit of leaving the keys in the lock inside the bedroom and locking myself in. (dangerous to have deadbolts that use a key on both sides, as someone can lock you inside that room, and with bars on the windows ....)
Anyhow, I went out of the bedroom and closed the door for the air-con. Somehow, the latch sprung, and the bedroom door was now locked, with my computer, cell phone and keys inside it! I thought OK, no problem i will just crawl out a window .... uhhh, whats that? Bars? SHIT!
I took some pans from the kitchen and held them outside the door and started banging.. The landlord came over and quickly fetched the other keys. As for getting the keys from the bedroom, the key wouldn't open the lock because they were inside the lock on the other side. It was the long pole that they use to get mangoes, with a bent nail on the end which finally got the keys out. Thank goodness I didn't have the window latched.
Otherwise, I saw that on another house, we would take the padlock off the outside of the steel door at the entrance, and then place it again on the inside of the door when we were inside. This meant that someone could have come along and place another padlock on the outside of the door and lock us inside. This should never be possible.
The problem with the world is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Actually, I don't have much of a problem with wedding and funeral noises. It's very much cultural, but barking dogs have woken me up and kept me awake... I cannot tolerate that. People will not complain about it nobody cares.PorkPiePorn wrote:
One advantage of an insulated house and some double glazed windows would be noise transfer for sure. Needless to say, I do not have perfect hearing, so most general noises do not bother me. Yes, the weddings and funerals are still well noticed, but for that, theres Valium.
I hear you about security. One night someone was knocking on our door at midnight, in a locked in enclosure. Buddy (barang) was drunk and sleeping at his friends who lived in the apartment above, and wanted me to open the gate for his girl, as she was not quite the monkey he was. It rattled me though, you don't expect that.
Anyhow, I am working on the security details and bars design for the building. I would like wrought iron in an artistic design, and affixed to the outside of the building. This means either in-swing windows, or double hung, which might be just as well. Then from the inside, I will have window glass, then screens and then ornamental yet functional metal bars fixed to the outside of the building. There is a way to do it nicely.
Locking yourself out is one thing, locking yourself in can be much worse (thinking of fire).
Bars on windows... I have seen them cut open and the place broken into. Windows seem to usually slide horizonally, over each other, with the bars on the inside (there must be a better way...)
About your kitchen (photo), how much is the actual distance from the fridge to the island? Is it sufficient?
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Even when I am on a video call with Princess, I cannot believe what she needs to contend with regarding the barking of the dogs. I guess if you grew up with that, you just accept it.Don-Pierre de Plume wrote: Actually, I don't have much of a problem with wedding and funeral noises. It's very much cultural, but barking dogs have woken me up and kept me awake... I cannot tolerate that. People will not complain about it nobody cares.
... exactly my point, and another reason why I always wanted the bedroom door keys with me, INSIDE the bedroom.Don-Pierre de Plume wrote: Locking yourself out is one thing, locking yourself in can be much worse (thinking of fire).
Windows are not usually any one thing. Many are casements, they open outward like doors, (except with a crank) others are side sliders, as you mentioned, and others are double hung. The lower sash opens up and down, and the better ones, the top can slide down as well. Here, they are actually the most cost effective. You can also get hopper windows, these push out, usually out the bottom and are hinged on top. I do really like the Khmer style wooden windows with muntin bars between the different panes of glass. Traditionally, they would open outward though, and if I want my ornamental wrought iron security details on the outside of the building, then I would need them to swing inward, or just option for some double hung vinyl windows, which likely are less expensive anyhow and can deal with screens better. I just don't like seeing the bars on the inside of the house and following the Architectural Design rule, "If you cant hide it show it" I feel that, done right, it can really be an attractive building feature. In one place, I was trying to fix the curtains, and I was climbing ont he pars, and they broke without any force at all, on the weld. It occured to me how easily one could get them out of the wayDon-Pierre de Plume wrote:Bars on windows... I have seen them cut open and the place broken into. Windows seem to usually slide horizonally, over each other, with the bars on the inside (there must be a better way...)
Yes, its impossible to judge that distance from the photo itself, and TBH, giving you a dimension is of no matter, because, I can attest that for the 7+ years since I have built it - it has worked very well and I wouldn't change a thing. Its large enough for my rather large frame to stand between while the doors swing freely. I planned it well. I pays to determine your appliances beforehand. I can come from the inside (right) and open the door while coming around it to get what I want.Don-Pierre de Plume wrote:About your kitchen (photo), how much is the actual distance from the fridge to the island? Is it sufficient?
The problem with the world is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
- Jacked Camry
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Just wanted to add that the security issue was one of the most vexing I encountered. I hate the Cambodian "prison" style metal bars on all windows and like Don-Pierre worried about how one might get OUT in case of a fire. I ended up turning it into a architectural feature, by making the "bars" wood and building these big wooden shutters on the outside of the windows that can be opened or closed. They're not as strong as steel, but the point is to make it noisy and difficult to get in, not to make sure a maximum security prison is in place. All the shutters can be opened by the same key (only on the inside) so it would be easy to get out in an emergency. I hated having something that couldn't be opened as a security barrier and wouldn't do it.
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I'm honestly surprised anyone has decided to help you out on your quest for information given your previous condescending and closed-off attitude, but it seems like you've changed your tune a bit to something more humble and willing to listen.
A) them demanding more money for the additional time/work (thus going over-budget)
B) them simply cutting their losses and fucking off to another project, while you scramble to find another crew (still over-budget)
C) them slowing down to a crawl, with one or two workers sporadically showing up, while the others are on another project
They don't like foreign nit-pickers and aren't used to our high standards. They'll deal with some of it, but even some of the better/more expensive crews will balk if you get too “demanding”. Keep in mind that “too demanding” for them can range from walls being several degrees out of wack to not putting the outlet in the correct location despite you having spray-painted it. The funny thing is that quite often, they actually give themselves more work by being sloppy. I'm sure most of us with experience here have many examples to give... The work quality is increasing every year though, as workers gain experience with more varied designs and demanding customers.
Now that's more like it... Here are a few random notes:PorkPiePorn wrote:I can tell you how to build a good home in the west with a blindfold on. I have no such confidence here now, but, I am detail oriented so I will definitely have most of my t's crossed and i's dotted before I begin.
Projects tend to be rushed because workers are in high demand, and they make more money the faster they get stuff done. If they price something out for you, they plan on getting it done FAST, and that means cutting a few corners whenever possible. If they deem you too demanding, you risk either:PorkPiePorn wrote:Most building projects are too rushed. I would like to hire it in stages so that I can correct or amend/fix as necessary before the next stage. I have no problem watching the project and also have reliable family that can sit and watch if I want a nap …
A) them demanding more money for the additional time/work (thus going over-budget)
B) them simply cutting their losses and fucking off to another project, while you scramble to find another crew (still over-budget)
C) them slowing down to a crawl, with one or two workers sporadically showing up, while the others are on another project
They don't like foreign nit-pickers and aren't used to our high standards. They'll deal with some of it, but even some of the better/more expensive crews will balk if you get too “demanding”. Keep in mind that “too demanding” for them can range from walls being several degrees out of wack to not putting the outlet in the correct location despite you having spray-painted it. The funny thing is that quite often, they actually give themselves more work by being sloppy. I'm sure most of us with experience here have many examples to give... The work quality is increasing every year though, as workers gain experience with more varied designs and demanding customers.
They use level lines and then as you say, use a lot of mortar under the tiles. They look good enough, but doesn't mean they're perfectly level until you've seen water on them. I agree that it's still good for the most part.PorkPiePorn wrote:It seems floor pours are really rough and then theres a ton of mortar under the tiles to level things up later. I'm still unsure how they make it look so nice and level when they are done, but from the jobs I have seen, its quite satisfactory when finished.
I would avoid this. Double-brick walls and high ceilings (despite being ugly IMO) DO make a difference. Pretty much standard for outside walls unless you're on a budget. I insulated the drop ceiling on one place, and have openings between it and the actual roof with ventilation holes so that crosswinds can go through (meshed up so rodents or birds can't get in). It does make a difference. However, as far as walls go, I think it's the wrong approach unless you plan on it being air-conditioned 24/7. One place was designed with aircon 24/7 in mind and it works well, but it's tiny. A larger place would be a nightmare and add significant costs to the project (I'm not in tune with costs anymore and my old notes are outdated, but I reckon 10-16$/sqm for drywall, and insulation is expensive). We're in a tropical climate, so it's best to design with that in mind. Design with that fact, not around it. What you want is airflow and a way to suck the hot air upwards. Otherwise, even a well-insulated place becomes a sauna if it has no natural/artificial ventilation. This puffed-up amateur's 2c.PorkPiePorn wrote:I am tempted to use steel stud and drywall for the inside of the exterior walls, for the electrical and insulation, and for some of the non structural interior walls. I wonder if this is done anywhere and why or why not. I do believe that most of the ceilings are done in this way, as some are also quite ornate, so, I know it is possible.
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Yes, I am also considering the Shutter concept. In one place I stayed, they had outside solid shutters with an inside screen, all attached to a wooden frame. I do believe from a security perspective, the wooden shutters would work fairly well, as long as you could not pop the pins on the hinges, however, I identified a few problems with them. If I wanted security while I was inside the building, it was dark. If I put hinged windows inside, it is better, however, when I leave the building, i would want the shutters closed, which means that I could not have air movement, neither natural light. But, esthetically, from outside, the shutters would also look nice, for sure. They could also help with cooling at night. I need to work on this some more. At a 5 star hotel in Siem Reap I stayed, they had villas like this. The outside shutters were louvered, so a bit of light could come through. You would just unlock them from inside. Also, to operate the shutters from the inside, the screen would always need to be dealt with. Do you have any photos of that detail JC?Jacked Camry wrote:Just wanted to add that the security issue was one of the most vexing I encountered. I hate the Cambodian "prison" style metal bars on all windows and like Don-Pierre worried about how one might get OUT in case of a fire. I ended up turning it into a architectural feature, by making the "bars" wood and building these big wooden shutters on the outside of the windows that can be opened or closed. They're not as strong as steel, but the point is to make it noisy and difficult to get in, not to make sure a maximum security prison is in place. All the shutters can be opened by the same key (only on the inside) so it would be easy to get out in an emergency. I hated having something that couldn't be opened as a security barrier and wouldn't do it.
The problem with the world is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
- PorkPiePorn
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Thanks for hanging in with me. I'm pleased this thread has grown some legs. Thanks also for your input, its appreciated.LexusSchmexus wrote:I'm honestly surprised anyone has decided to help you out on your quest for information given your previous condescending and closed-off attitude, but it seems like you've changed your tune a bit to something more humble and willing to listen. [...] This puffed-up amateur's 2c.
The problem with the world is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Porky, you're missing my point. I like to learn from forums such as this, so when you say it works well for you, I need to know the ACTUAL distance so I can take that into account in my design.Yes, its impossible to judge that distance from the photo itself, and TBH, giving you a dimension is of no matter, because, I can attest that for the 7+ years since I have built it - it has worked very well and I wouldn't change a thing. Its large enough for my rather large frame to stand between while the doors swing freely. I planned it well. I pays to determine your appliances beforehand. I can come from the inside (right) and open the door while coming around it to get what I want.
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Assuming you have a similar concept in mind for your Cambodian house:PorkPiePorn wrote:
I would go with plain white benchtop surfaces, at a glance you can see if it's clean (or not). Wildlife and meat particles will hide in patterns or dark surfaces, especially an issue in tropical countries (if you want to stay healthy).
Space between cabinets and ceiling is a bad idea for obvious reasons.
Handles on drawers and cabinets is also an important point. They should be easy to operate and easy to clean. You might consider wide horizontally orientated handles or better still, profiled within the timber or auto-open on a light push.
Round knobs are perfect transfer points for bacteria. Remember you are building in a tropical country where not everybody washes their hands (when they should).
- Jacked Camry
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Here it is when we were building it...PorkPiePorn wrote:Yes, I am also considering the Shutter concept. In one place I stayed, they had outside solid shutters with an inside screen, all attached to a wooden frame. I do believe from a security perspective, the wooden shutters would work fairly well, as long as you could not pop the pins on the hinges, however, I identified a few problems with them. If I wanted security while I was inside the building, it was dark. If I put hinged windows inside, it is better, however, when I leave the building, i would want the shutters closed, which means that I could not have air movement, neither natural light. But, esthetically, from outside, the shutters would also look nice, for sure. They could also help with cooling at night. I need to work on this some more. At a 5 star hotel in Siem Reap I stayed, they had villas like this. The outside shutters were louvered, so a bit of light could come through. You would just unlock them from inside. Also, to operate the shutters from the inside, the screen would always need to be dealt with. Do you have any photos of that detail JC?Jacked Camry wrote:Just wanted to add that the security issue was one of the most vexing I encountered. I hate the Cambodian "prison" style metal bars on all windows and like Don-Pierre worried about how one might get OUT in case of a fire. I ended up turning it into a architectural feature, by making the "bars" wood and building these big wooden shutters on the outside of the windows that can be opened or closed. They're not as strong as steel, but the point is to make it noisy and difficult to get in, not to make sure a maximum security prison is in place. All the shutters can be opened by the same key (only on the inside) so it would be easy to get out in an emergency. I hated having something that couldn't be opened as a security barrier and wouldn't do it.
And when we were finished.
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That looks a whole lot better than the steel bars.
I notice the absence of paint on the pavers...
I notice the absence of paint on the pavers...
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Sure, I took some measurements for you, and thank you for your question. Keeping in mind the refrigerator face is convex, and has a protruding large handle, AND the Fridge door itself is ONLY 20" wide.Don-Pierre de Plume wrote: Porky, you're missing my point. I like to learn from forums such as this, so when you say it works well for you, I need to know the ACTUAL distance so I can take that into account in my design.
Total distance from the Island counter to the hinge side of the fridge door is 34"
Total Distance from the Island counter to the handle side of the fridge door is 32.5"
Total distance from the Island counter to the outside of the handle is 30" (protrudes about 2.5-3")
ALL if these dimensions are quite acceptable for movement through the space. If someone is working on that side, it may be harder (but not impossible) to pass by them, but its a poor place to set up, as one needs clear access to the fridge. Any wider and its not as nice to move product from counter to appliance.
The counter actually protrudes from the base 9.5 inches so there is lots of foot room.
All of the dimensions are somewhat relevant, however the main one is the space between the counter and the open door, which is 16" This is still quite comfortable for me to open the door and go to the inside of the fridge. Also, because of the large overhang (9.5") of the counter, if one bends down, you still have 46.5" from the cabinet to the open fridge space.
As shown. Please disregard all kitchen clutter and overall dirt.
The problem with the world is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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Thanks Porky, that's clear space of about 1m, and is the recommended minimum generally. The last 2 photos show it much better.
I'm sure you cleaned/tidied up before the photo sessionPlease disregard all kitchen clutter and overall dirt.
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