A travel blog of sorts, I guess.
- FishHead Phil
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My hotel but not my pic.
I’ve treated myself to a nice-ish hotel near Ngurah Rai airport for a couple of nights paying a little more than my usual thimble of belly button lint and few toenail clippings for a room. It was very generous of the porter to carry my backpack on check-in but it’s always a little embarrassing, particularly when your one bag only weighs six kilos and smells like a homeless man’s underwear.
This is also a bit sad, but I’ve developed a bum gun fascination and feel all future accommodation should be given a bum gun rating. My airport hotel has set the bar pretty high with the tremendous jet of water exploding from their bum gun. Should a plane burst into flames on the tarmac two kilometers away, I’ll be able to contribute to the fire fighting efforts from my bathroom.
So it’s off to Bangkok, Bangers, The Big Mango, sin city, old Siam - Thailand, the land of smiles where flavorsome spicy food is as plentiful as retired white dudes clinging to their youth while clinging onto pretty young things and a cold Singha. I’ll be clinging to the hope of a good exchange rate.
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“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
- FishHead Phil
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Waiting for the bus to Denpasar.
A question I’m occasionally asked here is why I never chose to marry. My reply and attempt at dismissing the question jokingly is “Wives are expensive!” Sometimes the Indonesian guy laughs, the woman looks at me curiously, then back at her still giggling partner. A muslim fellow who had two wives in tow asked me the wife question the other day with my reply almost causing an international incident. I’m a social hand grenade.
Ceremony time. (Not Putu Ali).
Trying to cross the road outside my hotel is a nightmare - it’s dangerous and you need a small miracle to make it across alive. That small miracle is Putu Ali, and he is possibly the bravest person I know. It’s this tiny sixty something year-old’s job to step fearlessly into the middle of oncoming traffic, raise his baton, and bring vehicles to a standstill so hotel guests can get across safely. He’s like having your own personal miniature Gandalf.
An appealing occupation on some levels.
Having lunch in a local warung today explaining to the owners my love of nasi padang food, they asked if I’d like to try a local delicacy. I nonchalantly waved it over looking forward to exhibiting, or showing off, my cultivated pallet and iron gut. It seems there’s nothing more hilarious to Balinese people than watching a tourist struggle with a mouthful of food so intolerably repugnant to him he gags and has to spit it out at risk of presenting the remnants of his breakfast violently across the table. Imagine a three day old buffalo patty soaked in motor oil with a layer of fish gut sprinklings.
May your turtle breeding be abundant this year. The nonsense continues.
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“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
- FishHead Phil
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Taking your shops to work.
You know that feeling when wake up and all at one with yourself and the world? If I was ever going to join the bonkers new age Russian hippie at the special river to celebrate being connected to the universe, today would be it. Om Shanti Om. *prayer hands* Maybe I’ll buy a yoga mat.
Leaving Bali.
An elderly Vietnamese couple sat next to me on last night’s flight and took great interest in, well, everything. They pawed over the in-flight menu with quiet “Oohs” and “aah’s”, looked through the seat pockets up to their armpits, and marveled at the seat belt buckle. The old guy was constantly making his elderly wife laugh throughout the trip and I wanted to keep them.
It's clean and cheap.
I’m as happy as a seagull with a chip in my little seven dollar a night room in the middle of Bangkok. It’s clean and cheap with lots of hip young things being groovy all about the place. It was difficult to discern the difference between one dreadlocked couple I saw this morning. They say everyone has a double, and these two found there’s. It was like having two Sideshow Bobs standing in front of you which is way cool and bizarre at the same time - the way life should be. BGR 6/10 (Bum Gun Rating)
May you be as satisfied in life as a dung beetle in an elephant enclosure.
“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
- FishHead Phil
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Tim’s from Australia but you can’t pin down his accent. He’s mid fifties, chain smokes, been roaming the region for the last ten years, and has reinforced to me the importance of having interests, hobbies, or a purpose if you’re an expat or long term traveler. Tim’s not sure what his plans are - he might go to Cambodia, he might go back to Australia to visit his daughter, he might rent a beach hut on Samui or Phangan, he’s also thinking about going to Portugal… But for now he’s off to a bar and could be there a while.
I wanted to extend my stay where I am to be told no rooms were available. I found a couple of other places on booking.com I thought might be suitable and walked there this morning thinking perhaps I might enjoy a 10-15% discount subtracting b.com’s commission. The first owner didn’t want to entertain any discounts, she actually jacked up b.com’s advertised price by $50 (it’s a three week stay) - I guess I hadn’t had coffee yet so I must have looked a bit desperate. I’m not sure I understand the owners thinking, but the second place I visited not only reduced b.com’s asking price by 25%, she threw in free laundry once a week, daily coffee, and she’s got a great cat.
I’m around Soi Rambutri and compared to my last visit a number of years ago, the place is still pretty quiet. I thought the price of street food might’ve increased since I was last here as well, but I’m pleasantly surprised to find plenty of roadside fare around the streets for between thirty and fifty baht. Of course everyone’s lifestyle is uniquely their own, but so far I have to say Thailand (for me at least) is still very cheap - a vastly different experience to when birds, booze and a bit of crazy was the order of the day.
“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
- Phuket2006
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prices have for sure gone up, but with the baht around 37 to the US $ it all evens out
enjoy
enjoy
"We are turning into a nation of whimpering slaves to Fear—fear of war, fear of poverty, fear of random terrorism, or suddenly getting locked up in a military detention camp on vague charges of being a Terrorist sympathizer." HST
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This hat makes perfect sense in a city that has tropical sun one minute and torrential rain the next.
Bin makes my coffee every day in a small hole-in-the-wall cafe type thingy and we chat while she’s doing so - neither of us understanding a word the other person is saying. I’ll speak for a bit then she’ll respond, our morning ritual playing out like an Asian Monty Python sketch. I imagine Bin’s telling me about her day when she’s probably demanding to know why someone would keep bothering her this way.
The acrobat.
Walking through a park I found a nice young guy standing on his head surrounded by juggling clubs and balls. I’ve never had a conversation with a stranger while they’re standing on their head and found it enjoyable - I’m not sure if the young man shared my enthusiasm. After righting himself I learned he’s quite a talented acrobat who comes to the park most days to practice. Maybe we’ll stand on our heads together some time.
A bridge.
The old Bangkok buses lumber around the city like enormous red prehistoric wood beetles, and although they’re not that environmentally friendly, I think they they add great character to the place. To me, the west can sometimes feel a bit sterile by comparison as well as somewhat clinical. Yes, I’m grateful for highly trained doctors and trains that run on time, but couldn’t we have some fruit sellers wandering the carriages?
“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
What make is that guitar, please? After a Martin (or other) travel guitar
- FishHead Phil
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The guitar was a Honer, I think. It was sitting behind a desk at the bus stop.
“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
- FishHead Phil
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A delightful man who was happy to chat.
I dropped into the new guesthouse to confirm they’d be ready for my arrival tomorrow and was immediately greeted by the resident cat who I’ve named Basil because she’s “faulty”. It’s a lovely affectionate creature but I noticed its rear leg has a twitch, or jump, which gets out of control and thumps away with a mind of its own. The cat needs re-wiring just like Thailand.
I watched a wedding dress maker today for a bit.
Walking into the bathroom this morning I found a Japanese man doing sit ups directly in front of the urinals. I looked at him, he looked at me - and I considered my bladder pressure - yep, I was pretty sure I could make it from where I was if he decided to continue his morning aerobic session there. The Japanese fellow must have realized I was going to attempt a “long shot” should he not move, and he took his calisthenics elsewhere.
Thailand people adore their cats it seems.
You see more walks of shame early on Sunday mornings in the Kohsan Road area than just about anywhere in the world. There are also those who need to prove their decision making process was not affected by the eight margaritas and thirteen depth charges the night before and have to walk around for an hour or two holding hands to prove it. Quite a number of young, and not so young, travelers have a pretty detailed understanding of the cracks and crevasses in the pavements around Banglamphu - eye contact was at a minimum early this morning.
I trust your weekends were all rather splendid.
“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
- FishHead Phil
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Pot is being sold everywhere.
As you know, Thailand recently passed new laws decriminalizing cannabis for medicinal use which has been pretty much interpreted as “Light ‘em up” by many. Little pop-up pot stalls are found on Rambutri and Kohsan, with my decision to investigate one the other night resulting in being completely absorbed (stoned) playing chess for most of the last thirty six hours and now on a first name basis with the 7/11 staff across the road. They’re far out and groovy cats, but they’re going to need more Oreos,…. maaan. Good for a giggle but no risk of me becoming a stoner.
Siamese crocodile tastes like, well, Siamese crocodile.
It’s fair to say I’ve tried most food I’ve come across over the decades traveling the world, but I find my penchant for trying new things has waned in recent times. It appears my interest in destinations is similarly affected as I’m now considering where to travel to next with India, Nepal and Cambodia all being considered, but the fact is I really enjoy Ubud in Bali and think I’m going to return there for a couple of months. It’s an interesting thought to consider I might be content in one place which would never have been the case a few years ago. Again, old age doesn’t come alone it seems.
The Thais do love their cats.
There are more eccentric types staying in the new guesthouse than starred in One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest. One gorgeous Finnish girl is the housekeeper getting her board and keep for three hours work each day, - she’s looking forward to living in a cave in India for a few months after Thailand. There’s also an aging traveler who carries taro cards and loves to talk about the overland hippie trail and how the world has gone mad when it is he who appears to be few beads short of an ankle bracelet. Basil, the cat, is still the weirdest resident by far.
May your pumpkins be bountiful this year.
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“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
- FishHead Phil
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- Joined: Mon Jul 15, 2013 3:22 pm
I find transitioning to Asian-style breakfasts easy.
Life at Chateau Vagabond continues serenely with an array of worldly misfits arriving by the day. The first thing Philippe from France said to me when we first met early yesterday was “The Chinese, they have fucked Cambodia and it is finished for me there!” While I agree current Chinese foreign policy in the Asia-Pacific can only work to the detriment of the region long term, a friendly chat about mangoes or something similarly benign first thing in the morning upon introduction would be preferable thanks, Philippe. Social lubrication’s a thing!
Back alley walking never gets old.
It looks like there are two open air bars on Soi Rambutri (one at each end) that openly sell cannabis and allow you to sit in their street side establishment to smoke your purchase - the aroma and scene fitting perfectly with the surroundings it seems to me. I dropped into a shop on Khao San Road to look at American imported cannabis to find it somewhat predictably full of ridiculously named weed with equally laughable prices attached. But we’re in a tourist ghetto, I guess, and I’m certainly no authority on the ganja scene - maybe Crouching Tiger Hidden Gandalf is the bomb!
I know I prefer to wear my furs in ninety eight percent humidity. How 'bout you?
You forget about the noise of Southeast Asia. When you’re back in the west planning the next jaunt to wherever, the small inconveniences are anesthetized by time or subdued by the parts of the experience you remember fondly or look forward to. I was talking to a young German couple today when I asked the girl what her first impressions of Thailand were. Without missing a beat and with a look of astonishment she said “I can’t believe the noise here. It never stops.” I’m not sure coming from the west you can ever really get used to it. Maybe Crouching Tiger Hidden Gandalf isn’t overpriced or over rated after all.
“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
- FishHead Phil
- I have some social problems
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- Joined: Mon Jul 15, 2013 3:22 pm
Not sure what the occasion was but there was a mobile band giving it plenty in front of the procession.
Does a restaurant or eatery require a fixed address to qualify for a Michelin star? If not, I need the contact information of a Michelin inspector so they can review a street food vendor who’s spicy chicken is the bomb! I’m not sure what the dish is called (I’ll ask), but for now I’m going to name it Shaboomi Thai Chicken. We'll probably have to surreptitiously attach a location beacon device thingy to the street vendor’s cart so we know where to find her when the Michelin people arrive what with anonymity being required for the review..
There was a small group of overweight security guards bursting out of their uniforms who were forced to endure exercise for whatever reason in a car park not far from Chateau Vagabond the other morning. An equally unfit security guard Colonel-type stood in front his men appearing to play good cop/bad cop by himself - seemingly praising the team one minute, then admonishing his troops to have them do star jumps or push ups the next. It was an uncoordinated chaotic disjointed affair that looked a shambles - it was great! I’d now also like Andrew Loyd Webber’s contact details because between Michelin Star Shaboomi Thai Chicken, security dough boy aerobics, and throw in a betrayed broken hearted westerner, there’s a musical that needs to be made.
I know in parts of Bali food sellers plying the streets with carts were banned which immediately removed some of the character from the place.
Chateau Vagabond’s owner is so small she’s a trip hazard. But she’s the kindest, calmest, gentlest person you’ll meet… until Thailand women’s volleyball comes on the TV that is. This four feet something butter wouldn’t melt in her mouth half pint of chocolate milk completely transforms at the first blow of the whistle into a mad woman possessed with competitive fervor. She’ll stand two feet away from the TV and ride every shot with exasperated cries of grief and exalted shrieks of joy to return immediately back to the passive demure little lady she was once the game’s finished. Apparently the Thai volleyball girls are doing quite well.
May life be giving you only good bits.
“Some people never go crazy. What truly horrible lives they must lead.”
― Charles Bukowski
― Charles Bukowski
Keep it coming, great stuff!
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