Phnom Penh Restaurant Reviews; Pop Cafe da Giorgio
As I enter the front door of Pop Café I am blasted with a wave of aromas which transport me back to the Old World bistros of my Italian American New York neighborhood. The warm smell of freshly baked bread, simmering sauces and slowly cooking meats summon the deepest culinary desires. I am salivating before we even reach the table.
Black-and-white photographs of Latin settings counterbalance the traditional interior, brightening off-white walls and adding personality to the place. The kitchen is alive with girls slicing tomatoes, grating cheeses and feeding main courses into the oven. We arrive just before a rush of diners fill the place. Georgio, the charming owner explains that he often has to turn away business.
The waitress brings a basket of fresh bread with a bottle of olive oil. We look over the wine list while savoring oil-soaked medallions. They help soothe the hunger pangs antagonized by the stimulating aromas emanating from the kitchen.
The selection of wines is attractive. I suggest a full-bodied red which well accompanies rich sauces. Georgio explains that the Chilean “Castillero Del Diablo” is the finest choice relative to the price ($9/half-bottle). We order one along with appetizer plates of “Mozzarella Caprese” ($5) and “Fresh Bruschetta”.
The waitress brings the small, warm bottle of Chilean Merlot and pours me a snifter. The deep spirit draws me in. It dances off the tongue and glides soothingly down the pipe. The full earthy texture is quite honestly one of the best I’ve ever tasted in Cambodia. I let each mouthful sit and work its way slowly along.
The Mozzarella and Bruschetta meet the wine halfway along. Thick evergreen basil adds a nutty accent to the light tomatoes and creamy slices of mozzarella. Lemon citrus adds zest to the tomato, onion and caper mixture which sit lightly on warm toasted bases of the Bruschetta. The wine washes them along in a slow, euphoric procession.
As we settle into the finale of the first course we scope the menu for entrees. The lightness of the appetizers leaves me craving something heavier. I go for the “Rigatoni with Meatballs” ($8), a basic dish – but one which I am sure Georgio will do well based on the quality so far. My buddy decides on “Linguini al Funghi Porcelini” (a pasta dish of tomato, bacon, dry crepes mushrooms, garlic and onion – $6.50). We sink further into wine bliss as we wait for the main course.
Georgio is a true master. Each portion of everything is just the right size, and the timing impeccable. We have just begun a second bottle of “Diablo” when the main dishes arrive.The tender, gritty-textured meatballs melt into a sauce which is rich in garlic with a touch of wine. A touch of grated cheese gives a perfect combination of saltiness and tanginess. This lays on a bed of fragrant and slightly undercooked rigatoni, which prevents the starchiness of the pasta from upstaging the sauce. The Porcelini is a lighter concoction, both in the consistency of the pasta as well as that of the sauce. The mushrooms add an earthiness to the strong vegetable base. Both dishes are well-accented by the wine.
At the end we are mellowed from the spirits and heaviness of the meal. Although there is no room for desert I would have loved a Tiramisu and Cappiccino to top it all off. Or better still, another bottle of Diablo. I’d had my fill for the evening, however.
The bill came in at just over $40 for two which included two half bottles of wine. Although a little outside of my teacher budget, this place will be reserved for special occasions, or maybe once a month. The atmosphere and service were perfect. Georgio has a “Specials” list which he uses to introduce new dishes and test them on customers, adding popular ones to the main permanent menu. The “Veal Scallopini” selection ($9.50) caught my eye. That is a fine dish which goes better with a white wine. I would like to try it on another visit.
Frank Lancieri
Pop Cafe Restaurant: Italian
#371, Sisowath Quay
Lunch and Dinner Tel: 012-562892