Phnom Penh Restaurant Reviews: The Emperors of China

The best dim sum I ever had was in Hong Kong, where there are endless numbers of Dim Sum houses. The elements of a perfect dim sum experience are these: a vast dining hall; large buzzing crowds waiting or gathered around big tables; and a clattering processional of multi-tiered carts with a cornucopian cargo of few-bite delights.

Is there any chance a restaurant in Phnom Penh, where there is a dearth of competent Chinese food, can offer a seminal dim sum experience? Probably not, but The Emperors Of China comes close. The Emperors of China is located just east of the Olympic Stadium in Phnom Penh.

Although it is nothing like a traditional Dim Sum house in terms decor or atmosphere – the slightly kitsch interior it is spotlessly clean, brightly lit and relatively quiet – the dim sum is almost as good as you could find in Hong Kong. Really? Many visits to this place compel me to say yes.

All traditional dim sum choices can be found there. Har gao (蝦餃), spring rolls (春卷), siu mai (燒賣), xiao long bao (小籠包), and all kinds of dumplings. The key enticement is a surprisingly value-priced repertoire. Virtually all of the two- or three-piece dishes cost only $2.30.

The menu lists a vast number of dishes, including more expensive items like shark fin soup and braised abalone, but I must admit that I did not even try anything from the regular menu. Dim Sum was what I went to Emperors Of China for.

All the dim sum is rushed from the kitchen to your table. The chart-topper among traditional dim sum choices is the xiao long bao (小籠包), little juicy dumplings filled with pork and jellied stock. When steamed, the aspic melts and becomes the tasty hot broth that gushes out of the dumpling and into your mouth when you bite into it.

One first-rate special delivered fresh from the oven is the Baked BBQ pork in puff pastry. Tender pieces of sweet char siu pork are wrapped in a light and flaky pastry. This dish lights up multiple taste centres on the tongue and pleasure points in the brain.

Equally enticing is the minced pork and preserved egg congee, which comes with slices of fried bread sticks known as youtiao (油條). Every day, plain congee is cooked for hours to ensure a fragrant and soft-textured porridge. The congee is dappled with pieces of pork, century egg and shiitake mushroom, and the concoction is imbued with fragrant ginger. It is a simple but subtly nuanced dish.

For dessert, the baked egg custard is particularly recommended. These Hong Kong style egg tarts, which are served hot, do not have a shortcrust pastry, but rather a delicate flaky puff pastry.

Radioactive Anne

Summing up:
Grade: A
Sound level: Relatively quiet. No problem carrying on a normal conversation.
Cuisine and scene: Quiet, family friendly restaurant, brilliant dim sum, Chinese standards for breakfast
Recommended: xiao long bao, siu mai, har gao, hand-pulled noodles, congee
Vegetarian friendly: No
Beverages: Fragrant jasmine tea and the usual assortment of coffees, soft drinks and beer
Price range: For two, dim sum will set you back $20 – $30
Extras: parking; VIP rooms well-suited for larger groups
Serving: Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily; open from 7am till late
Details: No.19 St.163, Sangkat Veal Khan 7 Makhara, Phnom Penh, Cambodia; 097 92 92 699 (Chinese), 097 222 1688 (Khmer), 012 780 667 (English)